Reflections on our Friends Behind Bars


And Happy Holidays from Vietnam

Things are not looking good in Bangkok. Our friends have been in the detention centre for about 10 days. The early rumour that they'd be out in a matter of days is a definite no deal as now they've now revoked some (all? who knows?) of their visas. I think it's especially hard for our 4-year old neighbour, Kaixin, who usually spends her whole days running around our soi (lane way) with her gang of friends. It's not easy for Angela either, our 14-year old friend who was released the day of the arrests but whose parents are still locked up with things looking so uncertain. At the moment, there are no signs that they plan to let them out any time soon. We're being told that it has little to do with Thai law at this stage, and everything to do with orders from the Chinese embassy. Still, we have a lawyer and we're doing what we can.

Kaixin in happier days. She was terrified of
getting near the elephant until I sat with her.
This is in Pataya last January.

Jan is dealing with all of that in Bangkok and I am in Vietnam feeling a little helpless. I am sending all the good thoughts I have their way. We both were there all through the harassment, aggressive arrests and aftermath at the police station/detention centre. For the first time I felt like I had a glimpse of how things work in China. How good people (the police had been supportive and friendly previously) can turn into callous, heartless thugs when orders come from above. It all just seemed so groundless and irrational and completely unjust, utterly opposite to what's right and wrong. See the look on the guy's face in our last post? At the police station a couple of hours later, I had a long talk with him about his Buddhist beliefs - that was his gentle, devout side clearly not captured here.

Meanwhile I'm in Vietnam taking care of my 5-Star travellers. It's a really great group and all has gone relatively smoothly (minus one traveller who's 'missing in action' but not to worry). We're in Hanoi now and will move further south on Boxing Day. It's much colder than I'd imagined. Thus far my Vietnam purchases include a quilted jacket, sweater, gloves and scarf (I'm well-prepared in other ways, honestly!).

Hoan Kiem Lake, Lake of the Returned Sword,
the spiritual heart of Hanoi and hallmark of the old city.

As the story goes, in the 15th century, Emperor Le Thai drove the Chinese from Vietnam thanks to a help of a magic sword bestowed to him from heaven. Shortly after the victory, Le Thai was boating on this lake and a giant turtle emerged from the water, took his sword and swam back under. Thap Rua, Turtle Tower, is the tiny temple you see in the middle of the lake. They tell me there are a few massive 500 or 600 year-old turtles still living in the lake that come up to sun on the island when the weather changes. The very fine Sofitel where we're staying is a block from the lake, which takes maybe half an hour to circumnavigate.
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